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Hi Matt,
Sorry for the delay. I have been away for a few days, catching up with email now.
I assume you already have a UK number plate allocated? If not and you have any original log book, tax disks or evidence, you should be able to get the original one reallocated with a little work.
For workshop manuals, I simply buy any that come on the market for around £10 to £15 (on ebay).
Pitmans is fairly good, but very small writing (Uploaded).
The next good one I use is The Lambretta Serviceman’s book. There is little difference in the releases 1 / 2 & 3 when it comes to LD,s. I have all three, but need to scan the other two and publish them when I get a moment.
For part numbers, this is a tricky one for me as it depends on what Lambretta you have and model. Yours is a UK one, so in theory, it will be an Italian build, so parts and part numbers should be simple (ish) to find. For this (Part Numbers), the The Official Lambretta Guide – For owner-service and maintenance (An MRP book – light blue in colour) is good to use – currently sold for around £10 most of the time on eBay. It also has a maintenance guide area.
If looking at buying a manual, you should be looking at spending between £10 to a maximum of £15 (Which should include delivery)
With reference to the Lambretta Services Mans Guide you cant download.
I have looked at this and I am am able to download both the big file
(170mb) and the small file (11mb). The files are in PDF format. If your trying to download them on a mobile or android device, this may be an issue. They are best downloaded and opened and viewed.
If there is anything I can help with in this area, please let me know, as they should be simple to download. Although the large file may take time to download.
I have other manuals as well, but found these the most useful. I will upload all the others when I have a moment. It takes quiet some time to scan them in and publish.
Some general tips that you may want to consider:
Bearing and Seals – For some parts replacements (Bearing and seals), I found your better off going to other re-sellers, rather than official shops, to reduce your costs.
Gasket 1 – For gaskets, I tend to make most of mine myself.
Gaskets 2 – I also use Hylomar Blue (Gasket Jointing Compound – yellow tube) for some parts and especially for the carburettor areas, where required, as this can leak at times after an overhaul and replacement official gaskets do not always work very well.
Oil Leaks – For oil, expect some leaks to happen if you over fill. Especially by the kick start mechanism area.
Mag Flange – Try to avoid taking the Mag Flange off if you can. Some come off with hard effort. Some are even harder and you may break the mag flange to try to get it off. I have one at the moment that I am going to put in the oven for a while to heat it up before trying to prize it off, having spent around 7+ hours (+ 1 year soaking in diesel) trying to get it off without breaking it.
Cylinder Head – For the cylinder head area, it is very easy to over tighten the head / nuts. Avoid using a torque wrench anywhere. If your intending to take the head and cylinder of, check for hair lines cracks.
Torsion Bar 1 (Original roller bushes), it is easy to push the bars back through and damage the roller bearing. Replacements are bronze bushes easily found at various shops.
Torsion Bar 2 – When pushing the torsion bars back through, be careful not to hot very hard. If your off by a few mil and tap too hard you will break the engine casing.
x2 Engine Bushes – If replacing the engine bushes, they are difficult to get out. Treat with caution when replacing as you can break the bottom engine casing if too much force is used.
Main Big Engine Pin / Bolt – The engine mount pin (by the stand) tends can be difficult to remove at times. When removing this, be careful of the mag flange side cowl, as the engine pin will knock a bit of this off if it is not removed.
Stand – The stand pin also seizes up most of the time and requires a hammer and force to get out. I use rust penetrating fluid and a long wrench extension pole (For this and the engine pin) as the tool to knock it through.
Transmission / Gears – If taking the gears apart, be careful not to loose the two slightly thick metal spacer washers.
Transmission shaft – If you remove this, many roller pins may fall off. The easiest way to put these back on is with a little grease, to hold them all in place.
Kick Start – The kick start lever area also has spacer washers that when you remove the kick start, they sometimes fall away and leaves you wondering where they came from.
Parts Manuals – For some of the items above, it’s best to look at the parts manual to see what I am referring to. If any of it does not make sense if and when your taking it apart and you wonder what I may be referring to and you would like me to point out the parts, please get back in touch and I will do some screen shots. It may take me a few days to do it though!
These are some of the immediate things that spring to mind on what to look out for and general tips.
If there is anything further I can help with, please do not hesitate to get back in touch.
All the best and I hope the restore goes well.
John
Notes:
I have sent an email reply with this information as well as posted it onto the website. If you have not received the email communication, please check your Junk / Spam area.